Thanks Nellie- Just a visit to the DIY & fishing shop I think I'll try a few frames this year to see how it goes.
Do you need to get the eyelets from Thornes or do they sell them in places like B&Q?
Thanks Nellie- Just a visit to the DIY & fishing shop I think I'll try a few frames this year to see how it goes.
Do you need to get the eyelets from Thornes or do they sell them in places like B&Q?
I got mine from Maisemore (and the frame wire, there is a fishing shop around here but it's a fair old trek away so I used standard frame wire in the end), I dare say they're fairly standard bits of kit and I could have saved a pound if I'd bought them from elsewhere but it looks like I've got several years worth of frames to do with what I have.
Hi Chris.
Your 14.5 kg lie sounds just right to em provided it's monfilament. With fishing li eyou don't need ferrules in the holes as teh iniial stretch in the line will keep them tight even if the line beds into the grain a bit. I suspect that you will still get the odd line chewed through but at 14.5kg they should all last long enough for the comb to be drawn and aged enough to support itself.
The fact that it's thin is an advantage in my estimation provided the strength is ok. In fact a thin line is probably made from a tougher plastic than a thick one of the same strength, but I don't know much about fishing either!
Rosie
Many thanks Rosie for replying quickly- that avoided me a 2 hr round trip to the shops, and I was able to get a good start on preparing some frames. I was concerned that line might slip more easily than wire, but found that wrapped a couple of times round a carpet tack, it holds fine. And the reusult pleases me.
Nellie, that tool- wire is like us- it tends to sag a bit more each year.You put the wire between the two wheels and run it along and everything sort of crimps and wrinkles and tightens up.
Made up another bunch of frames today, now I just need to do the brood boxes and I'm ready to go. Did point out to the Mrs who was helping me that we've actually still got another 100 super frames to go, but I think I can put those off for a couple of weeks.
The syringe idea worked well for putting a line of wax onto the top bars, now I just need to find out how well they work in anger. The first go should be next week when I'll try and bailey change a National onto the 14x12s.
Notice that Keele university are undertaking a study of what's in UK wax.
I can't make Stoneleigh where they'll have a stand apparently but I did mail them today to ask if I could take part in it. Apparently they want 500 beekeepers to send them wax samples and they'll tell you exactly what they found in your wax. Having just put the first batch of foundationless frames on a colony to Bailey Change them over, it'll be interesting to see what they find.
Having been intrigued by the idea of wiring frames after all the discussion and tips in this thread, I tried doing some super frames with fishing line (30lb mono-filament)and alternated them with frames with foundation (well, I can't waste them!). After 10 days the bees have begun to build them out, straight through the lines. And what a lovely colour the wax is compared to that built on the bought foundation. Once full, the next test is the extractor
Nellie, I'm going to try your method of using a syringe to fill the top bar groove with wax next time. As i didn't have one, it was the teaspoon method which, besides been fiddly, was quite time consuming, particularly when scraping off the excess that had spilt.
If / when my bees decide to swarm, I'm going to be brave and try a few brrod frames too
The only hive I'm using the 14x12 frames on Is hanging in the balance a bit but they have started to draw out the foundationless frames. It's make or break fir them this weekend but I'll try and sort some piccies out as what they had drawn was beautiful White drone comb the two frames I did take a quick peak at had just reached the first wire without any apparent issues.
I don't wire the super frames at all so I can extract, crush and strain (where the combs aren't fully drawn) or cut comb as I see fit.
Syringing the wax worked really well. I reckon an ounce block Is more than enough for 15+ frames.
Melt the wax.
Place all your frames upside down in a nice line.
Boil the kettle.
Pour boiling water into a jug and chuck in the syringe to heat it up
Fill the syringe with wax and put it back in the jug to keep it hot. Wax will leak out if you hold the syringe upside down out of the jug!
Syringe a nice line of wax along the top bar. Couple of mil per top bar is fine. If the nozzle starts to clog up pop it back in the jug for a few seconds. You dont need to apply a lot if pressure to the plunger the wax is quite willing to come out on its own.
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