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Thread: Absconding apideas

  1. #11
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    You lot frightened me when I read that apideas abscond when in full sun. My Warnholz nucs are in full sun and have just had a couple of days that must have been the warmest and brightest of the season. I checked and found them all happily enjoying the conditions. I wonder if Apideas are worse for this than other types of mini-nuc.

    I usually introduce my new queens as soon as the their first batch of larvae are capped so that I can be certain they are not laying drones. I haven't introduced a large number but I haven't had a failure yet.

    Steve
    Last edited by Rosie; 11-08-2012 at 03:33 PM.

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    Administrator gavin's Avatar
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    It didn't look to me that absconding was worse during the hotter spells but they probably did need a little sun to head off.

    What about height off the ground? Two I have a metre or so off the ground have stayed put despite a degree of overcrowding whereas their sister were off.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Adam's Avatar
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    I've had a few absconders this year - it does sort of coincide with hot weather - although most are OK and some aren't. One absconded when there was just eggs in the hive so there was hardly a chance of putting a queen excluder over the entrance before she was off. I've also had a couple of queens from my plywood ones abscond too. On both occasions, they were well-balanced colonies, with room and with stores, queen been laying for a few weeks. Not what I would have expected. I have a period of melancholy when I discover that one has gone.

    Jon, do you drop the slider to expose the ventillation screen when your apideas get full to allow them to keep cooler?

    Note to self: It's going to be warm and sunny for the next few days.....

  4. #14
    Senior Member Jon's Avatar
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    Jon, do you drop the slider to expose the ventilation screen when your apideas get full to allow them to keep cooler?
    I don't, but that sounds like a good idea.

    The best strategy to avoid absconding is to get the queen out and into a nuc asap after brood is sealed although like you I have had some abscond leaving just eggs.

    The other thing you can do is cage the queen after she has laid up the frames and put the cage in the feeder. best to put a couple of attendants in the cage as well in case the rest of them abscond and don't come back. On a couple of occasions I have found just the queen in an apidea. I watched one apidea try and abscond several times on the same afternoon.

  5. #15
    Senior Member prakel's Avatar
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    Do any of you guys using apidea/kieler type boxes shake out frames of bees (for use elsewhere) to control the adult population? Might that work in such small boxes?

  6. #16
    Senior Member Jon's Avatar
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    I remove frames of sealed brood from populous apideas, shake off the bees and put the brood in apideas which are short of bees.
    The other thing you can do is swap position of two apideas at night to equalise numbers but you obviously can't do this if virgins have already orientated.
    If you are removing queens and replacing them with another queen cell this works well.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Adam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon View Post
    I remove frames of sealed brood from populous apideas, shake off the bees and put the brood in apideas which are short of bees.
    The other thing you can do is swap position of two apideas at night to equalise numbers but you obviously can't do this if virgins have already orientated.
    If you are removing queens and replacing them with another queen cell this works well.
    I too remove a brood-frame and swap-out. A few days ago I removed a populous mini-nuc from beside a wooden mini-nuc. The following morning the flying bees went to the larger mini-nuc next to where their home used to be, this was the plan - to strengthen the wooden nuc and build it up to over-winter. Unfortunately it started a bout of robbing. I have removed the mini-nuc to my out apiary unfortunately, I think the queen has gone.
    Another melancholy moment for me.

    Any left-over mini-nucs are combined over nucs or less-populous hives - depending on their location. I don't like to waste bees. Either the mini-nucs are emptied of stores once the brood has gone or the frames are filled so I have capped stores for next year.
    Last edited by Adam; 17-08-2012 at 01:16 PM.

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    Administrator gavin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam View Post
    I've had a few absconders this year ....
    Murray* was describing to me the other night strange strong swarming/absconding behaviour in an apiary not far from the association site where several (most!) Apideas absconded. Something he saw last about 20 years ago. And my own bees were swarming from queenright splits within a couple of days of splitting. Maybe it is just that kind of year.

    * I was seeking data from him relevant to the East-West colony loss issue raised in the Scottish Beekeeper ... for something I'll write for the Scottish Beekeeper this weekend.

  9. #19
    Senior Member fatshark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prakel View Post
    Do any of you guys using apidea/kieler type boxes shake out frames of bees (for use elsewhere) to control the adult population? Might that work in such small boxes?
    Assuming there's more of the season left I do the opposite ... when a Kieler is getting full I add a super, get them to draw frames and expand into it, then I split the boxes into two for a later round of mating. Last season this worked well, this season - because of the dreadful weather - less so. Mid/late season I just stop splitting them into two. The intention is to have packed double height Kielers at the end of the season. About half my Kielers are now double deckers that will go into the winter.

    If I simply want to control numbers in the box I do as Jon does and remove sealed brood to a weaker Kieler ...

  10. #20
    Senior Member Jon's Avatar
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    Assuming there's more of the season left..
    I hope so as We put over 70 cells into apideas this week.

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