Matchsticks yes or no??

[Adam]

Neonach,
Interestingly you wish for larger roof vents when I cover the vents (bee escapes) with insulation and don't see any damp in the winter or summer. (With a mesh floor).

When there is a strong flow on in warm weather, I think there is an argument for increasing the roof ventillation in the summer to allow warm moist air to rise; otherwise the bees may have to fan damp air 3 feet downwards and out of the entrance which mush be harder. I generally don't open the top of the hives for this purpose though as a tree hollow would not have this facility.


Gavin: WBC's. I have read (Herrod-Hempstall in the 40's?) of the idea of filling the cavity and above the crown board with dry leaves. Insulation and the ability to breathe. The best of polystyrene and gortex combined!

As I have 5 WBC's in my selection of hives I suppose I could try it. (Good for mice too, I think).


Jon, the beauty of a mesh floor is the ability to monitor the varroa drop. Do you have any method of doing this with your solids?

[Adam]

Neotach,

The lifts of a WBC will keep driving rain of the brood box and a wet box will not insulate as well as a dry one.

The lifts are a bit of a pain I agree especially if they don't all fit each other or you don't have enough.

All my wife imagined was one white WBC on the lawn. Currently I have 5 WBC's. A dozen or so single walled hives. A fetching blue and terrracotta coloured MB polyhive and some large mini-nucs. Plus a workshop in the back garden with extraction room. And I've taken over the kid's den to keep supers in! I must be mad.

[Jon]

Jon, the beauty of a mesh floor is the ability to monitor the varroa drop. Do you have any method of doing this with your solids?

I can't monitor the mite fall in the colonies with solid floors but I reckon by monitoring a few colonies on mesh floors I get an idea of the mite levels overall in the apiary.

As Finman used to say elsewhere - no need to count mites, just kill them all!

You can get surprises though. When I did the Oxalic treatment last December some colonies dropped no mites at all yet I had one which dropped about 100. All had September apiguard treatment. I suppose it could have robbed out a weak colony somewhere and taken the mites home. The queen is still going strong so obviously did her no harm.
Open mesh floors are presented as essential for mite control in most quarters these days but I have my doubts as to whether it makes a huge amount of difference.

All my wife imagined was one white WBC on the lawn. Currently I have 5 WBC's. A dozen or so single walled hives. A fetching blue and terrracotta coloured MB polyhive and some large mini-nucs. Plus a workshop in the back garden with extraction room. And I've taken over the kid's den to keep supers in! I must be mad.

I remember the picture from the bbka site. Clearly, if not completely mad, we are all mildly eccentric but that is normal for a beekeeper.

[Adam]

I can't monitor the mite fall in the colonies with solid floors but I reckon by monitoring a few colonies on mesh floors I get an idea of the mite levels overall in the apiary.

As Finman used to say elsewhere - no need to count mites, just kill them all!

You can get surprises though. When I did the Oxalic treatment last December some colonies dropped no mites at all yet I had one which dropped about 100. All had September apiguard treatment. I suppose it could have robbed out a weak colony somewhere and taken the mites home. The queen is still going strong so obviously did her no harm.
Open mesh floors are presented as essential for mite control in most quarters these days but I have my doubts as to whether it makes a huge amount of difference.



I remember the picture from the bbka site. Clearly, if not completely mad, we are all mildly eccentric but that is normal for a beekeeper.

Fuinman makes a good point - I possibly don't monitor as much as I should but if I blast them in August and December then they should be OK.

I think a good OMF does help - both in losing mites and counting them. However my varroa damaged colony didn't look too bad for mites and then suddenly it was collapsing and the mite fall was still not too high. (Being robbed didn't help much though). I hope it's now OK but if it didn't get through winter I would not be too surprised.

The MB Poly National has a panel of mesh floor that is plastic with quite a lot of square edged plastic so it would be easy for some mites to not fall through and then crawl back up.

[Mellifera Crofter]

As for increasing ventilation, I wouldn't tinker with a well-tried design unless there is real evidence that it is necessary. It is rare that you see bees at the entrance ventilating in the UK - perhaps at the height of a really strong flow in hot weather. Increasing ventilation may just stress them at other times. I can see the need for matchsticks during strong flows in hot countries, but apart from that I'm with Jon - Eiffel Tower models only.

Neonach,
Interestingly you wish for larger roof vents when I cover the vents (bee escapes) with insulation and don't see any damp in the winter or summer. (With a mesh floor).

Gavin and Adam,

I thought the larger vents in the roof that Neonach suggesed (#45) is more in line with what Chris said (#18): a ventilation gap above the (breathable) insulating material, but under the roof, will wick away moisture while the bees will not suffer from any drafts.

... or did I misunderstand something? If so, sorry.

Kitta

[chris]

As we are in the highlands my husband wants to wrap the hive in bubble wrap ( he has a free source). Is he mad?

In France, the apicultural research institutions have looked into the question of wall insulation. The advantage of it is that the bees consume 10%-15% less stores. The downside is that the extra warmth tricks the bees into starting brood raising too early.The foragers are forced to bring back very cold water with all the risks that follow, and are also tired out doing very little of any use. The unwrapped colonies, although they develop later, have a much bigger and quicker build up, their bees being more numerous and better rested.

[Adam]

Gavin and Adam,

I thought the larger vents in the roof that Neonach suggesed (#45) is more in line with what Chris said (#18): a ventilation gap above the (breathable) insulating material, but under the roof, will wick away moisture while the bees will not suffer from any drafts.

... or did I misunderstand something? If so, sorry.

Kitta

My mistake, you are right. Actually some of my roofs have ventillation some don't and I see no difference between the two. I put insulation on the crown board and pop the roof on top. Never seen any dampness.

[Adam]

I'll have to monitor my poly hive and see if the bees respond in the way you describe. (1 hive is not a good scientific test of course).

So Chris, from the research you mention, the answer would be to keep the bees cool and then insulate heavily in early Spring to get a fast build-up.

If its water that they need to dilute honey, a small pool inside the hive might work. (Or a pet-rabbit water feeder perhaps?). As Jon writes Clearly, if not completely mad, we are all mildly eccentric but that is normal for a beekeeper.

[chris]

So Chris, from the research you mention, the answer would be to keep the bees cool and then insulate heavily in early Spring to get a fast build-up.

For those who like tinkering, yes. Personally I leave the bees to decide when things are ready for them to start off. But then again that depends on when the first important flow will occur.

[Dan]

Emperor Penguin. To style oneself thus might suggest a degree of belief in one's own stature and importance in the world. ;~)

Indeed. And by hiding behind a pseudonym there's a certain element of "listen but don't argue" going on.

I think it would be healthier to know who is writing, because everyone has their preferences and pet topics. I'm just as guilty of this!