Best way to requeen nasty colony

[Rosie]

I hope I don't repeat anything here but I have not read the whole thread. When I introduce a queen I leave her in the cage in the hive for 3 days and then release her onto a horizontal comb on top of the frames and watch the reaction of the workers. If they seem to accept her I just lower the comb back into the hive. If they try to ball her I stick her back in the cage for another day. Introducing the queen to a nuc first helps even more. I never rely on the fondant method now as it's too hit and miss for my liking and has caused the loss of some good queens.

When I can't find the old queen or can't face searching a killer colony I just insert a protected queen cell. They can't tear down the cell and when the virgin eventually emerges they seem to treat her like a supersedure queen and the old one gets the chop. Presumably they allow the virgin to sort her out. It works almost every time but I have not deliberately counted the success rate.

The same technique usually works with a colony with laying workers too and I have no doubt that it is infinitely better than the book method of dumping your bees on the ground. I can't imagine how that idea ever caught on.

[Black Comb]

I tried the protected queen cell method on a couple of snotty colonies this season but both failed.
In the past I have used a manley cage. The benefit of this is that they eat the first plug and can access and feed the queen through the small Qe, whilst I leave the large plug sealed over with tape for a few days to see how they are reacting to her. When things look calm I take off the tape and they eat their way through the large plug and realease her.

[mbc]

My experience of using protected cells in queenright colonies, or supercedure requeening as its known in the antipodes, has not been particularly successful either. Shame, as its dead quick.

[Adam]

Jon is correct - I've introduced a dozen or so queens this year simply using smoke into a colony that has been queenless for 4 days or more. (Removing the queencells first of course). 100% success.
The queens have been my own so haven't traveled and thus been in a good laying condition which I am sure helps.

[Mellifera Crofter]

... In the past I have used a manley cage. ...

What does a manley cage look like, BC?
Kitta

[The Drone Ranger]

Jon is correct - I've introduced a dozen or so queens this year simply using smoke into a colony that has been queenless for 4 days or more. (Removing the queencells first of course). 100% success.
The queens have been my own so haven't traveled and thus been in a good laying condition which I am sure helps.

That's brilliant Adam
The queen condition is an important tip which I will bear in mind
I have used the Snelgove method wetting the queen never just smoke
I must have a go next year

[The Drone Ranger]

If anyone is interested here's a link to Snelgrove's Queen Introduction book
It's quite a big .pdf
Lot of interesting stuff in there on direct introduction
Time from mating till lay etc
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4k...it?usp=sharing
Takes two or three min to download

[Black Comb]

What does a manley cage look like, BC?
Kitta

If you have Honey Farming by Manley a drawing is on page 202.
Bickerstaffes sell them. If you scroll down the page there is a photo and some blurb.

http://bickerstaffs-queens.blogspot.co.uk

[Black Comb]

The other thing I've had with introductions is the queen hiding.
It's happened a few times with black queens introduced to cordovan workers.
Last time I introduced by cage and then about 10 days later went in and no sign of queen or eggs or brood.
I had a top feeder on which was empty and as I took it off I saw the queen in the "feeding" part of the feeder. I picker he up, placed her on the top bars, gently smoked around her and crossed my fingers.
She is now laying well.