Hi Pete,
Probably a bit off thread her but I was wondering how many beekeepers wire the frames instead of the foundation. wiring frames gives stronger support than the diagonal thorne type wiring I ask cos I was wondering how easy is it to recyle wired frames.
Still trying to figure out how the thornes foundation wiring machine (yellow box in new catalog) works
Hi Phil, i have always used the wired foundation, just that i dislike having to wire frames, plus we sell some ready assembled frames in our beehives, and i would not like the idea of wiring all the frames and fitting foundation to sell.
Not figured out how the modern type wiring machine works in the single picture, but the one at the top where they are using four wiring boards are similar to what we use...except ours is better and faster than that method, ours actually tensions the wire and heats the wire just by pressing a foot pedal, and a red indicator light comes on, on the face of the board, to indicate the circuit is complete, no separate switch to press like those in the picture.
Pete - have sent you a message
todays news
Visited my out hives yesterday, a lovely sunny day but mixed feelings. Two hives dead, one had blown over and hit the other some weeks ago but there were still bees in both when I righted them at that time.
I've concluded that it is largely beekeeper error. The site is just too exposed really, lovely in summer but too little shelter against the flat fenland wind. So blaming myself for the losses.
Moving the other hives alongside back home to shelter in the garden, so may help their buildup.
Other hives, which were less exposed, looking good.
David
yup, the bees were flying strongly and getting loads of pollen yesterday here too.
One that wasnt gathering pollen -checked - no queen, only two frames of bees, no eggs... so in with the sulphur strip unfortunately.
18 good from 19 is a good result. My two apprentices have no losses so far so smiles all round.
FWIW I never recycled wired frames apart from stripping the wax and wire out and starting over. I used four horizontal wires in Lang and three in Nat, brood that is.
PH
Quite so PH.
Gavin saw a stack here this morning. Have two guys cleaning out 70 boxes a day in about 3 hours (then the water/soda mix gets too dirty) ready for immediate rewaxing.
Initial cost of cross wiring the frames is significant, but so is the premium for wired foundation, and you get a stronger flatter job than with diagonally wired foundation. It takes my guys about 25 minutes to cross wire a box of frames, but you have to add to that about 10 minutes for drilling and eyeletting if not previously done (one of our guys made a jig for doing this four eyelets at a time, so its fast). Once done (and you need to use very good grade wire that does not stretch), certain circumstances excepted, then its done for many years. Saves at least 20 minutes a box every time you renew the wax.
After the boil clean the rewaxing job only takes about 10 minutes per box, including retensioning the wires if needed. If the frames are very strong the retensioning is less likely to be needed.
The wax is also significantly cheaper. Own wax milled by 'T' this spring, immaculate job btw, cut to our special slightly undersize dimensions (you do NOT go into the grooves or bottom bars with this system) works out at 11p a sheet (excl VAT), of course for a like for like comparison you have to factor in the value of the wax.
We use four wires in BS deep rather than your three, but apart from that its the same. We just value the extra strength for extracting ling honey.
Does anyone know if one can get National frames without grooves?Originally Posted by Calluna4u
Kitta
Reverse the side bars ... voila!
Not from UK makers as a standard, but they can take some off before the groove is cut into them, as it is generally a separate operation. Just reversing the side bars leaves the 'V' pointing the wrong way if you have Hoffman type, and are going to have a mix of UK conventional and prewired frames. It is also best to get bottom bars for Manley style frames for the cross wiring way of working rather than the simple straight bottoms. The notched end gives the side bar something solid to push against when the wires are truly taut. The corners breaking out can be an issue otherwise. Thus you will gather that DN1 and SN1 type frames are never used here.
Talking at CABA on Friday so if anyone want this demonstrated then happy to do so.
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