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Thread: Modified Paynes nuke for queen rearing

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    Default Modified Paynes nuc for queen rearing

    This has been on the cards now for some time after seeing the modified paynes nuc's that the apiarist did. I decided to try and take out the side of the feeder without damaging it so that I could reuse it for separating the queens!

    Here are a few pictures of what it looks like just now not finished yet as need to add a few small blocks to the top of each side to stop the queens from meeting

    Paynes-queen-nuke.jpg


    Paynes-queen-nuke1.jpg

    tools used a Vibrating Oscillating Cutting Saw Porter-Cable-Corded-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-Cutting-Molding.jpg

    glue used gorilla glue as it fills up the cracks and is easy to pick of when cured

    As for feeding them I will use a Panyes top feeder that I will have to do a small modification to

    I will post more pictures later when its finished.

    Any suggestions welcome
    Last edited by gwizzie; 06-03-2016 at 12:11 AM.

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    I like it, good work.

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    Senior Member fatshark's Avatar
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    Nah ... too neat, no obvious blood splatter. Almost looks professional. Nobody will believe you when you say "all my own work" ... where's the satisfaction in that (other than still having your fingers)?.

    PS Seriously, nice job. You filled the gap between the bottom of the wall and the mesh I presume? Is that saw the sort of thing they cut plastercasts off with? I did mine with a breadknife ... I still have the scar tissue

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    Senior Member Jon's Avatar
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    You could probably position the wall to allow 4 frames on one side and 3 on the other and eliminate the extra space.
    Looks good though and that makes an inexpensive double mating nuc.

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    Senior Member prakel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwizzie View Post
    not finished yet as need to add a few small blocks to the top of each side to stop the queens from meeting....

    ....Any suggestions welcome
    Other tham complimenting you on a nice job all I can think of off hand would be to suggest that, if possible, you reduce the height of the division slightly and fit one single piece of wood across the top rather than seperate small pieces.

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    Can't see any entrance(s) yet?

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the nice comments guys, I have been giving this a lot of thought the last few months as the new season is nearly here and my first year trying my hand at queen rearing

    I will try and answer any questions comment where I can

    mbc
    I like it, good work.
    Thanks

    fatshark
    Nah ... too neat, no obvious blood splatter. Almost looks professional. Nobody will believe you when you say "all my own work" ... where's the satisfaction in that (other than still having your fingers)?.
    Hahaha need the fingers

    PS Seriously, nice job. You filled the gap between the bottom of the wall and the mesh I presume? Is that saw the sort of thing they cut plastercasts off with? I did mine with a breadknife ... I still have the scar tissue
    Not yet all you see in the picture is just dry fitted as thinking of having the center part removable ? (to make 8 frame nuc) so will need to add a thin piece of poly yet to fill that gap. The saw is a DIY saw for cutting wood,plasterboard,plastic pipe ect ect you can buy diff blades for them.

    Jon
    You could probably position the wall to allow 4 frames on one side and 3 on the other and eliminate the extra space.
    Looks good though and that makes an inexpensive double mating nuc.
    Thanks for the comment jon, did think of that but might make it a bit on the tight side (but will try it) ?
    inexpensive yes that's what I am aiming at

    prakel
    Other tham complimenting you on a nice job all I can think of off hand would be to suggest that, if possible, you reduce the height of the division slightly and fit one single piece of wood across the top rather than seperate small pieces.
    Thanks for the comment The smaller bits will be glued the sides and screwed for added support. BUT you might be onto something there ? using a frame top and gluing and screwing it to the polly part could be a possibility to ??

    Beefever
    Can't see any entrance(s) yet?
    LOL thats because I have not made any yet I am thinking of making one at each end and closing up the center one (but not permanent as need if using as nuc)

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    Senior Member prakel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwizzie View Post
    thinking of having the center part removable ? (to make 8 frame nuc).

    Thanks for the comment The smaller bits will be glued the sides and screwed for added support. BUT you might be onto something there ? using a frame top and gluing and screwing it to the polly part could be a possibility to ??
    Using one single top bar will solve the issue of having the divison board moveable; this is something which I would think is very desirable as it's not only good for uniting pre-winter but (perhaps more importantly) it offers a quick solution when one side fails to get a queen mated. Much better in my oppinion to unite to the queenright side and then divide again when you're distributing the next round of cells. Averaged over the season I don't believe there's anything to be gained by pushing on, giving new cells to mating nucs which for one reason or another have already failed. Re-unite and give them heart by being part of a queenright family. It does neither side any harm.

    As for that vent in the floor, fill it in . Irrespective of whether you think mating nucs should have floor vents (I don't) I can confidently say that in this case the mesh is definitely in the wrong place (both sides next to the division). It will complicate management of a twin unit....

    ------------------
    Although I've been a big advocate of the miniplus hives (and still like them a lot) I reckon that you're going the right way using standard frames for mating nucs but that's another thread!!
    Last edited by prakel; 06-03-2016 at 10:44 AM.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by prakel View Post
    Using one single top bar will solve the issue of having the divison board moveable; this is something which I would think is very desirale as it's not only good for uniting pre-winter but (perhaps more importantly) it offers a quick solution when one side fails to get a queen mated. Much better in my oppinion to unite to the queenright side and then divide again when you're distributing the next round of cells. Averaged over the season I don't believe there's anything to be gained by pushing on, giving new cells to mating nucs which for one reason or another have already failed. Re-unite and give them heart by being part of a queenright family. It does neither side any harm.

    As for that vent in the floor, fill it in . Irrespective of whether you think mating nucs should have floor vents (I don't) I can confidently say that in this case the mesh is definitely in the wrong place (both sides next to the division). It will complicate management of a twin unit....

    ------------------
    Although I've been a big advocate of the miniplus hives (and still like them a lot) I reckon that you're going the right way using standard frames for mating nucs but that's another thread!!
    Hi Prakel,
    Yep I think that having a wooden top bar would be an advantage as you have said (I will try and get this done this week) and post a few pic's.
    As this will be my first year of trying to raise my own queens I have a lot to learn, one of the reasons that I wanted the divider to be removable is for the very reason that you have said.

    As for the mesh floor, when I look at other kinds of mating nuc's your right they don't have that!!! what I think i will do is add a piece of ply to the bottom (which can be removed) for when I want to return it to normal usage for overwintering bees

    As for an entrance NOT sure what i'm going to do as don't think normal one is big enough ? am thinking along the lines of bigger in length (but not to big)
    Last edited by gwizzie; 06-03-2016 at 10:52 AM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member fatshark's Avatar
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    You'd be surprised at the number of bees that can use a small entrance perfectly well. The old-style Paynes boxes had an entrance about 2cm x 0.75 cm. That's just fine even when run as an eight frame unit. For queen rearing you'll be working with 'weaker' colonies so a small entrance is important. I'd use a piece of plastic pipe glued in place (flush on both inner and outer wall) that I could block with a wine bottle cork.

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