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Thread: To wire or not to wire? that is the question

  1. #1
    Senior Member Kate Atchley's Avatar
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    Default To wire or not to wire? that is the question

    Those of you using Lyson MiniPlus nucs, or similar ones with frames larger than Apideas, do you wire them? I haven't bothered with the first few I've set up but am wondering if this was a mistaken short-cut.

    However, having drilled cell-holder holes in the frame bars I have now made covers ... two sizes for running the MPs as single or double units. I might even make those little flaps over the holes as in Apideas.

    Must have more time than sense you may say!

    Kate
    2015-06-16 09.29.09.jpg

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    Senior Member prakel's Avatar
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    I think that they're much better wired but having said that not all of mine have been done. They're small enough not to demand wiring but it does make for a nicer job if they are. All I'd add is that I'd only ever wire them (or any frame for that matter) with stainless wire. Anything else is a false economy.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Kate Atchley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prakel View Post
    I think that they're much better wired but having said that not all of mine have been done. They're small enough not to demand wiring but it does make for a nicer job if they are. All I'd add is that I'd only ever wire them (or any frame for that matter) with stainless wire. Anything else is a false economy.
    Thanks Prakel. Will wire the rest ... with stainless!

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    I wire mine, much better.
    I must say thanks to you Kate for the cut out in the frame suggestion, I have now routed out a conical depression on each side of the middle of the frames on all them that weren't occupied and have found it so convenient and secure for placing cells that I'm hoping to convert all of my mp frames when they become bee less and come back again in. I highly recommend this for anyone who uses the mp format.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Kate Atchley's Avatar
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    Thanks mpc.
    BTW I found this neat drill attachment online and it makes light work of drilling cell-holder holes in the frame bars: XTools 3pc Large Cone High Speed Steel Step Hole Cutting Drill Bit Set. Has to have a big reputation to boast so long a name! You'll find in on the usual online megamarket sites.
    Kate

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    Senior Member Kate Atchley's Avatar
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    Lest Gavin kick me off the forum for starting yet another thread, let me ask another question here, of you wizards.

    It's been bothering me that newly emerged virgin queens are known to have voracious appetites, so presumably need a balanced mix of food to grow to maturity and develop their ovaries, but here I am setting up mating nucs with young bees, adding about-to-hatch Q cells or newly emerged queens, and all they will have to be fed on is fondant.

    How's that for unbalanced food for our precious colony mothers?

    Maybe I'll start adding some chunks of comb with pollen to the feeders to bridge the gap until the young bees start to forage (and here in the NW that's an unpredictably luxury these days, with our appalling cold, wet weather)?

    Kate
    Last edited by Kate Atchley; 20-06-2015 at 07:55 PM.

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    Nurse bees produce all sorts of nutrients from their fat bodies which they'll feed an queen, not sure she needs it though, they're fine in a cage for a while with just a blob of fondant.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Kate Atchley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbc View Post
    Nurse bees produce all sorts of nutrients from their fat bodies which they'll feed an queen, not sure she needs it though, they're fine in a cage for a while with just a blob of fondant.
    Interesting. What amazing creatures these are! Given the weather here, I'm not sure the 'fat bodies' of our nurse bees will be in great shape ... but hey ho, let's see how the queens do.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Kate Atchley's Avatar
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    Cautionary tale re MPs The temperature finally rose yesterday above the typical June day of 10-12 degrees, and dry! But news from the mating apiary is dismal.

    I'd set up the mini-plus nucs as singles to get them going, with fondant. Have you guessed! The bees (and hatched queens I hope) were all clustered in the top boxes above the fondant, creating havoc in the confined space. Will see if I can shift them back down today but it seems starting them is best done with syrup and that metal guard which prevents bees going up into the top box.

    As for several unhatched queen cells in Apideas ... it seems they must have become chilled as the queens looked well developed and ready to go otherwise.

    Last week I found some of the unhatched queens in the cell-raiser colony had become chilled and died (or so I think). They were in a single brood box above a mesh floor with cold nights and cool days and very little open brood around them. Now I regret brushing all those bees off to put on the cages for the last three days. Mea culpa.

    So I live and learn

    Anyone have a reliable minimum temperature they reckon is needed for queen raising?

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    Senior Member Jon's Avatar
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    I have had no problems with my apideas. If they are set up right in the shade with the right amount of bees they should be ok.
    At what point do you add your queen cells? I like to add them less than 24 hours from emergence and would consider 48 hours to be the limit. When I add them earlier than that I start to lose queens to chilling.
    At 24 hours emergence is near 100%.
    I had 45 cells in the incubator a couple of weeks back and every one produced a queen.
    Last edited by Jon; 01-07-2015 at 10:39 PM.

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