Q rearing by numbers

[prakel]

I maintain that when you re-queen grumpy bees they often just bide their time and bump her off then raise one of their choosing (usually another ill tempered brute )

I'm of a similar oppinion although I don't even think that they need to be outwardlly grumpy to do so. Cells will be taken down if for any reason they doubt them but if they can't gain access to them they'll just sit back and wait until the resultant queen goes missing on an alledged mating flight.

I'm also dubious as to whether the majority of cell protectors are actually beneficial. Another of my wild theories, but I'm fairly sure that it's better for the bees to have direct access to the cell -you can always tell a good 'ne if you look back a few minutes after introduction; the recipients will be all over it, in a friendly way. What if they pull an unprotected cell down? I've come to the conclusion that it's for the best and simply saves time in the long run.

[Peter]

When you remove a queen you have 12 days to get a new cell in before any queen can emerge from something they concoct themselves.

If they use a 2 day old larvae then I think that you can only count on 10 days (3+2+10=15). But if you leave it that long then it is probably best that they build their Q cell; any Q that emerges can be removed.

[Peter]

That should have been larva of course!

[Jon]

If they use a 2 day larva it would be nearer 11 rather than 12 but they are unlikely to use a 2 day larva if they have younger larvae available.
I find when I remove a queen they often don't start a cell for a couple of days especially if there are some eggs present and there usually are.
If I have removed a mated queen and I don't have cells available immediately I just let them work away then I nip the cell(s) in the apidea whenever I insert the grafted one. They rarely make more than 2 cells.
I prefer to insert the cell immediately or after a week when there are no more suitable aged larvae left. If you insert a new cell after 3 or 4 days you have to remove any cells they have started and there is still a chance that they will start another in preference to the cell you insert.

[The Drone Ranger]

Here's a little experiment I tried out
It's just a bit of fun really because I don't have a cloake board or know how to use one anyway
So I used a cardboard substitute lol!

[The Drone Ranger]

I think I should delete my last post I seem to have killed this thread

[prakel]

I think I should delete my last post I seem to have killed this thread

You can also use a couple of sheets of newspaper with a few pin holes at the edges of the nest (offset between sheets) under a framed excluder.

[gavin]

You can also use a couple of sheets of newspaper with a few pin holes at the edges of the nest (offset between sheets) under a framed excluder.

What, for killing SBAi threads?! You guys are so inventive ....

Great to see the video DL. Can you also make Snelgrove boards from cardboard? A step up in recycleability from Jon's correx efforts.

[The Drone Ranger]

What, for killing SBAi threads?! You guys are so inventive ....

Great to see the video DL. Can you also make Snelgrove boards from cardboard? A step up in recycleability from Jon's correx efforts.

Lol! not much chance of that

I thought somebody might put up a clip up of a cloake board being inserted
I would like to see how it's really done

[prakel]

100.jpg 035.jpg 073.jpg 028.jpg

the mating nucs which are waiting on queens to start laying are rapidly becoming nectarized but it's great for getting new combs drawn and stores laid down -these OSB3 boxes go through winter quite well here, the deeper (than mini-plus) frames allow the bees to organize themselves really well for the months ahead.