SAF Natura Extractor

[Gordon on Iona]

Hello,

I'm researching these on behalf of my local association. Anyone have experience of them, particularly the 'Ritmo' model (for nine shallow frames), in either the motorised or hand-cranked versions.

Thanks in advance,

GB

[Castor]

I have one of their small ones. Does exactly what is says on the tin, however I had to make up some stainless clips to hold BS frames correctly (I think it was made for Langstroth), and after extracting a few frames it has to be drained because the long ears of the national frames are dragging in the honey in the bottom.
I need to do some more metalworking to resolve that.....however my extraction slave/wife is lobbying hard for a motorised one.....
The injection moulded lid initially appears a bit fragile, but it's been knocked about a fair bit now without damage.

[fatshark]

Gordon on Iona (you lucky chap) … I've got the motorised Ritmo, 9 frame radial. I run it with the gate open so have no problem with the relatively small volume below the cage. As Castor says (or as I understand him), the supports for the tangential brood frames are Langstroth-sized and need minor butchering. However, I've not bothered yet … I save these frames for making up nucs.

The internal cage is resin but seems both strong and well made. I've used the equivalent Thornes model (polythene not stainless) and prefer the Saf Natura (a valid comparison as the prices probably aren't too different). The stainless steel is well finished, with no ragged or exposed edges (unlike the Abelo equivalent I looked at at a show somewhere - might have been a dud/Friday afternoon build). The motor makes the same sort of odd whirring noises when slowing down. Reversible, but there's nothing to stop you slamming it into reverse when at full speed, other than a sticky label on the top. I agree with Castor that the lid appears flimsy, but have had no problems (though see long-term comment below) and the motor cut-off engages well. Only one side of the lid lifts, though both are hinged, due to the position of the motor. Mine came with a European plug and needed rewiring before use.

I bought mine from Bee Equipped and picked it up in person. Their pricing is very good. Note however that the model they display on their website wasn't (it may be now, I've not checked) the one they sell. The images they had were of the digital/programmable model. I got the bog standard manual one and - frankly - my frames are sufficiently unevenly filled to not benefit from any automation.

The legs appear sturdy and there are no exposed bolt heads or anything that suggests significant corners have been cut during design or construction. The gate supplied is plastic, but reasonably good quality. I'll be replacing mine with stainless in due course probably. I need to look at adding castors or soft rubber feet to help stop the wobble with uneven loads … Rosie has posted on ways to do this. The feet are drilled for this type of mod. It's easy to wash out with a cold water hose, though the underside of the lid is tricky to dry off … I usually hang a hairdryer in it on a low setting for half an hour.

Note that I've only had this model for one season, so can't comment on longevity or spare parts etc. I've probably used it to spin about 400+ frames in total, in two sessions (OSR and summer). I've had only one frame 'explode' … a incompletely drawn foundationless frame which I was stupid enough to try and extract from. I'm extremely pleased I chose a motorised version. Doing that lot manually would be little fun. I have no reason not to think it'll last for years and bought it expecting it to outlast my beekeeping. The upfront cost - for an amateur - makes it one of the more expensive items we use, but over 20+ years it should more than pay for itself.

Dot at Bee Equipped told me they'd been selling these for over a decade with no problems other than some packaging issues on shipping which I believe are now resolved; certainly the box I collected it in was very solid.

Drop me a PM if you have any more specific Q's.

[Gordon on Iona]

Thanks both. Interesting that you both want to make some minor alterations! Glad though that neither have reported any problems. I'm really seeking some reassurance and, currently, I feel reassured!

[fatshark]

In fairness it's only the stainless steel screens for extracting from 'deeps' that need modification, and then only if you don't use Langstroths. The castors/sponge feet are simply to reduce me needing to do the "extractor hug dance" round the kitchen with a poorly balanced load. In retrospect, since I've never run it with the tap closed, the plastic one is probably just fine. What I'd like is a nice stainless steel tap on my settling tank ...

I've got some pics somewhere if needed.

[Trog]

Just to clarify: this extractor will take BS super frames without modification? And does the rewiring simply involve changing the plug? Don't want to make an expensive mistake ... Has anyone tried it with the optional tank that sits below the extractor?

[husband's gofor]

Good afternoon Castor,
we thought we had a great deal when we purchased a SAF extractor in the Beverley Beekeepers sale, only when we tried to spin the BS supers they kept falling over. Are you able to explain how you made the clips to hold the frames in place?
Many thanks in anticipation.

[fatshark]

Hello husband's gofor (gofer?) ... I've got one of these extractors and the super frames fit well in the resin cage.

20140831-0038.jpg

Remembering that cells slope upwards ... the top bar goes at the outside, slotted into the recesses in the outer top and bottom cage. The bottom of the frame is balanced in the recess on the inner resin ring, visible at the bottom of the picture above. The pic below has a blown frame, but you can see some frames loaded behind it.

20150713-16-2.jpg

I'm very pleased with this extractor.

[Thymallus]

20150713-16-2.jpg

I'm very pleased with this extractor.

That a blown frame in the second jpeg?
I had lots of of frames blow in my old 9 frame extractor that I put down to their newness. And no I didn't go to max speed immediately....let 'em balance themselves out on lower speeds first...but they still blew.
Changed to 20 frame extractor which is noticeable more gradual acceleration up to any of the 10 speed settings and (fingers crossed) have not blown any so far. Plus the g forces are much higher. I'm pondering whether the time taken to get up to speed might be the factor in blowing frames...of course I could be speaking too soon

[fatshark]

I usually lose one or two a season, often because of a patch of crystallised OSR in an otherwise extractable frame.
Any mention of a 20 frame extractor would find me condemned to the 'naughty corner' for a month