To Swarm or Not to Swarm, that is the question!

[darlo]

Can anyone help with some advice on splitting a colony?

I am new at bee keeping, and currently have only one colony, which at present is housed in two brood boxes. Today’s inspection showed that the bottom box has 8 out of 10 frames, with both sealed brood and larva, where the top box has 4 or 5 frames of capped brood, and another 2 frames of eggs.

The queen was in the top box today, and in bottom box last Saturday, so she is busy and readily moving between the two. Haven’t seen any queen cells yet, but did notice a queen cup on one frame in the bottom box.

What I would like to know is, when would it be a good time to try a split or artificial swarm, to increase my stock? And any hints and tips on how to go about it?

[gavin]

I'd wait until they do make queen cells - prompted by not being given more space - then you can split into two boxes or several nucs.

[darlo]

Thanks Gavin

Took another look yesterday, and still only queen cups, a few more drone cells but still plenty of capped, larvae and eggs, and with a good view of her majesty working hard in top brood box.
One super on for past week, but the bees still have not drawn any comb yet. I don't have any exluder on, and tempted to try some syrup to draw them up. What do you think?

Chris

[Jon]

If you put a super frame in the middle of the brood nest the bees will draw it out and the queen will lay in it.
They will probably draw drone comb below but you can cut that off.
If you put it back in the super above the excluder the bees will go up to look after the brood and should then work sideways.
You can put it back below the excluder before hatch date or if it is all worker brood, you can let it hatch in the super.
I am assuming your super is not drone foundation.
make sure you don't move the queen up if you do this.

[darlo]

Thanks Jon. They started to draw after 2 weeks, and then a week after that, I ended up doing an artificial swarm, which appeared to go well, however on the next inspection of the queened colony, I discovered a sealed queen cell, no old queen, and less bees. So I guess its fair to say, they swarmed. I didn't catch the swarm, but in the past week, have discovered a new colony in some old hives 100 yards away. Havent spotted the queen in there, so not 100% sure they are the swarm from my hive.

The origional quuenless hive, was left with queen cell, which was found emerged 8 days later. This is now 7 days after emergence (approx). Not sure whether the new queen has mated yet. The bees were flying around today fairly eratic, but it was a little windy, but starting to wonder if I will loose a cast from them?

Anyone have any suggestions as to how long this years virgins are taking to mate?

[Jon]

Anyone have any suggestions as to how long this years virgins are taking to mate?

I have had about 5 mated so far and they have taken from 12-18 days.

[sandy78]

Allow 10 days after emergence watch landing board for pollen going in and check.If no eggs allow another 5 days as I find I am usually a week out in my calculations its unlikely there will be a cast as I presume you only left 1 Q Cell Good luck

Thanks Jon. They started to draw after 2 weeks, and then a week after that, I ended up doing an artificial swarm, which appeared to go well, however on the next inspection of the queened colony, I discovered a sealed queen cell, no old queen, and less bees. So I guess its fair to say, they swarmed. I didn't catch the swarm, but in the past week, have discovered a new colony in some old hives 100 yards away. Havent spotted the queen in there, so not 100% sure they are the swarm from my hive.

The origional quuenless hive, was left with queen cell, which was found emerged 8 days later. This is now 7 days after emergence (approx). Not sure whether the new queen has mated yet. The bees were flying around today fairly eratic, but it was a little windy, but starting to wonder if I will loose a cast from them?

Anyone have any suggestions as to how long this years virgins are taking to mate?