Is that French for something?!
IMHO a bit overly optimistic on the time it takes between the virgin hatching, mating and going into lay. There is clear evidence that leaving the harvesting of queens until there is some sealed brood from them gives them a better chance of being accepted, and in my experience this can take nearly a full month from emergence.
MBC
I remember posting that link on here. The evidence was very clear - and the optimum age of the queen was something like 28 days from emergence. At a minimum you should wait until some brood is sealed. Queens removed too early from apideas are often superseded within a month.
Link is here. Rhodes and Denney
Last edited by Jon; 20-06-2013 at 11:56 PM.
Where are they going after the apidea is it a de-queened hive or a queenless nuc ?
If they went above a swarm board there will only be young bees there
The queen rearing season is so short no wonder you end up having to buy so many Apideas
Sorry guys I've maybe not been very clear . The current occupants bar two of my Apideas are virgin queens I'm not especially attached to - they're grafts from one of my queens and although their temper is (or has been) good they have many qualities I don't like - going on the queens I raised from her last year.
So yes I have read of the waiting till there's sealed brood in the mininuc before introduction method. And ideally that's what I'd do. But as I'm likely going to have a batch of more desirable candidates following on behind and needing the mininucs the first lot are going to have to go somewhere and I'm going to make some nucs up using them. A purely practical consideration that's all. I will consider requeening the nucs with the second batch of queens (who will get a full period in the Apideas) depending on how it all goes. I appreciate the complexities of doing that but I've found the Manley or is it Alley-Chantry cage (the one in Honey Farming) a practically fool-proof method of requeening.
I'm going to suck it and see!
Btw - Thanks for all the great info.
Hi Drumgerry
Here's a pic of the push in cages I have used successfully when I know I won't get a second chance
IMGP0662.jpg
what you are trying for is an area with sealed brood,empty cells and honey
If the queen was a drone layer there wont be any brood but it still works
When you push the cage into the comb it breaks into the honey the queen can feed herself
Almost always she will go straight to the honey
When the nearly hatching brood emerge they find they are with the new queen
The bees outside the cage will feed the queen after a little while
Experts say leave it a week but I have a look and if it is calm I think 4 or 5 days is long enough
They are just black coated wire mesh for varroa floors
The sides are about 1" deep
I haven't used the alley cage that might be a better method
https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=7Y...TcqNb1iH6gG9KQ
somebody scanned Snelgroves book "the introduction of queen bees" bit long winded but heres the link
Last edited by The Drone Ranger; 21-06-2013 at 11:54 AM.
I'mplanning to transport some nearly ready to emerge to an out apiary.
I have a piece of packaging polystyrene which hopefully will keep them warm and upright.
What size holes to drill? 10mm?
If they are within 48 hours of emergence they will travel fine in your pocket with the roller cages on to protect them.
The critical period is the 4 days after the cell is sealed as this is when the larva is pupating and is very sensitive to temperature change or general rough treatment. A day before emergence the queen is soft but fully formed and is well protected inside the cell.
Thanks Jon.
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