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Thread: Is inbreeding an issue with bees

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    Default Is inbreeding an issue with bees

    I'm fairly new to beekeeping, I got my first nuc from my local assosciation in 2009, in 2011 I split this colony giving me my current 2 colonies, if I split these 2 colonies this year is there a risk of inbreeding? according to beebase there are 25 (registered) apiaries within 10km of my apiary.
    Do I need to source "new blood"?
    If so When?

    Steven

  2. #2
    Senior Member Jon's Avatar
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    It's only really an issue if you live on an island with very few colonies or in a very isolated area.
    Drones can fly 10 miles to mate.
    There are a couple of marathon threads on bee genetics and inbreeding on the forum from a couple of years ago if you have the energy to wade through them.

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    I'd be wary of assuming that there is enough diversity in the area to never bring in fresh blood. I get a horrible banded bee if I breed queens in upper Clyde valley, but move 2miles further up and 300ft higher and they are consistently dark. unless you know who the beeks in the area are and how strong the hives are, bringing in a good quality queen every 3 or 4 years has to be good. Every wild colony I was aware of in my area has died

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    Senior Member Jon's Avatar
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    I agree with regard to bringing in the odd new queen every few years but your problem is introgression of genetic material from other races or mongrels leading to hybridization rather than inbreeding.
    We all have there same problem on occasion as there are no isolated mating stations.
    Best approach is to get together with other local beekeepers and make sure you are all keeping the same race of bee - hopefully a nice black one!

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    I could never breed a consistently dark gentle bee when I breed them on the valley floor and its quite likely most of he lovers of the prolific cuddly imports never worked with gentle dark types due to availability. Top of the hill a different matter where they are consistently dark, the fact they are constantly dark would seem to me to indicate I am not getting the mixed input I did previously leading eventually to in breeding

  6. #6

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    Thanks for the replies, I suppose my immediate concern is that this year my original queen is 4 years old, my plan (all being well!) is to split this colony then unite the colonies back together replacing the old queen with her daughter, at this stage of my beekeeping is this ok?
    PS how do I determine which breed my bees are?
    Last edited by snimmo243; 27-01-2013 at 02:51 PM.

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    Administrator gavin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snimmo243 View Post
    Thanks for the replies, I suppose my immediate concern is that this year my original queen is 4 years old, my plan (all being well!) is to split this colony then unite the colonies back together replacing the old queen with her daughter, at this stage of my beekeeping is this ok?
    PS how do I determine which breed my bees are?
    Four years is a grand old age for a queen. Check in the spring to see if it is the same one - old queens often get replaced by supercedure.

    Wait for the colony to make its own queen cells (not giving all the extra space they need may bring this on in a reasonably strong colony) in May or June. Then I'd do an artificial swarm and probably also split off a nucleus so that you have two chances for a new queen, as well as keeping the old one for now.

    Races of bees? You could try the 'introduction to the course' here: http://www.sbai.org.uk/Breeding/ (with thanks to those whose images I borrowed!) and there is also a link on the page to Ruttner's table of the four proncipal European races of honeybee. Otherwise post some pics here. Most bees in Scotland are some version of a blend between the native type and imported races.

    G.

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    Not every AMM colony is placid, far from it, Pluscarden Abbey at one time was notorious. I have had some lovely quiet AMM stocks, and some seriously ill tempered shockers.

    PH

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    Not much AMM to be seen at Pluscarden these days PH unfortunately.

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    Senior Member Jon's Avatar
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    If you select your breeder queens for gentleness, and work with others keeping the same race of bee seriously aggressive colonies should be unusual.
    The worst aggression is often from unmanaged stocks whose daughter queens mate at random with whatever drones are in the area.
    The Galtee stock can be worked bare handed. Everyone in that area keeps AMM.
    A lot of dark bees are not actually AMM but are AMM-Carnica hybrids or just dark mongrels. Ruttner found that the AMM Carnica hybrid was the most aggressive.

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