Doing the exams...

[Neils]

The way it worked with us was that one of our Branch associations under Avon Beekeepers ran a series of evening workshops covering the Module 1 correspondance coursework and we covered one section per evening (I think there are six in total). We then had a day that everyone who was sitting any of the module exams could go back to the same place and actually sit the exam. I think the association has an advantage by having a couple of members who are BBKA examiners though so I'm not too sure how this'd work otherwise. It might be a point worth raising with your association though, see if there is interest (and perhaps with neighbouring ones too) in running a workshop or two to cover what's in the syllabus. I certainly found it very useful just being a bunch of othe beekeepers of varying experience levels working through each point, brainstorming the information we knew about hive types, why each of us chose the ones we had, what we knew about Swarm Prevention and Swarm Control etc. and picking up pointers such as knowing that a lot of people tend to get the two wrong so really getting on top of the difference between prevention and control, for example, is something worth knowing.

[Phil McAnespie]

Hi queenB,
The man you should contact is Ian Craig, who is the education convener of the SBA. His details are inside the front cover of the SBA magazine. He will guide you through the education programme. Initially you have to sit the basic beemaster examination and on successful completion you can sit the modules. There is no particular order to sit them in, it is up to you. The microscopy exam is usually done every two years, with one having been set this year. If you have access to a microscope or have your own, you will get the required practice. The SBA have put on a one day course in the last few years but you will need far more practice. There are many good beekeeping books to read and you should start with them. I found that for the Basic Beemaster Exam, I enjoyed going through Basic Beekeeping Study Notes by J.D & B.D. Yates (ISBN 0995652243.5). I now use the Beekeeping Study Notes (modules 1-4) (ISBN 0 905652-33-9). The exams are set on a specific date in March and at a venue which can be negotiated with Ian Craig. If you are interested in a correspondence course, these are available through the BBKA at a reasonable cost. There is a very good article in the SBA magazine this month by Stephen Sunderland on his experiences in sitting the modules. I would however suggest that you speak to Ian Craig and he will clarify everything for you. He is extremely knowledgeable and also a true gentleman who puts himself out on countless occasions for people willing to learn. Trust it all goes well for you.

[queenB]

Thanks - will have a word with my local bee group and see whats possible.

[Neils]

Finally got my results through (I'll spare you the gory details around getting the basic sorted out) for the Module 1 paper. I passed with a credit

Apparently this now makes me one of the most qualified (note I said Qualified, NOT knowledgeable ) people in our association, something I intend to change.

One thing I did pick up on in conversation over our "school day" this weekend is that there are mutterings that insurance in future will be dependent on having passed the Basic Assessment. I don't know whether that's just for England or whether it applies to Scotland as well, but it might make things interesting over the next couple of years.

[Neils]

Boing!

This Winter I'm going on to Module 3 (diseases!) which we're doing on the same basis as we did Module 1 last year. I do feela little guilty about skipping Module 2 (forage) as I know it's huge hole in my knowledge but the format on offer for module 3 is too good to pass up and after this summer's experience (we found EFB trying to do my basic assessment) I really feel that more knowledge about disease is more important.

I know I could do more modules on my own but I'm trying very hard not to take on too much work right now.

[Adam]

I keep thinking that I should do something myself. You put me to shame.

[Johnthefarmer]

I'm a beginner member of the Orkney Beekeepers' Association. We've started a study group with the aim of us taking the BBKA basic beemaster test. We each have a topic to research and then give a short presentation to the rest of the group. My problem is, as usual for me, that I've done nothing about it yet and we meet on Friday.So I thought I'd ask for advice on this forum. My study topic is 'What factors should be taken into account when siting and setting up a new apiary, especially regarding the safety of the public and livestock?' I can see that much of the answer is fairly straightforward commonsense but as I have very little of that and almost no beekeeping experience I would welcome any help, paticularly if there is any relevant legislation I should consider.

[Jimbo]

Hi Johnthefarmer,

You might want to mention that if you are a member of the SBA you will have public and product liability insurance as well as compensation for your first 10 hives. A good reason for everybody to join as individual members.
As for siting a hive. I have found that in Scotland you need to be careful about frost pockets and we do get a lot of rain so a fairly solid base to place your hive. I have had a hive topple over in summer due to the weight of the hive and the ground being soft.
For one of my windy sites I placed woven panels alternatively to break the prevailing wind. I overlaped the panels with a gap between so that the wind does not flatten the planels.

Jimbo

[lindsay s]

Hi Johnthefarmer
At the risk of getting into big trouble from Gavin I've pinched this off the main SBA website I hope it helps.

2 Basic Techniques
3.1 Siting an Apiary and Hives
Requirements of an apiary.
1 Access to suitable forage the year round, OR be prepared to move your
hives around. This is time consuming and can be expensive.
2 Level ground, or some means of making level hive stands.
3 Shelter - especially good windbreaks are necessary, but not an excessively
shaded site. Shelter from the North and East is especially important in this
area. Directly under trees is no good as the air remains damp and stagnant.
4 The front of the hives must not face directly onto a nearby path or road, as
people walking by will be directly in the bees’ flight path and get stung.
5 A supply of drinking water must be nearby, natural or provided by you.
Positioning hives.
1 Face them SE to SW, NOT NE or NW.
2 Place them up on some sort of stand, not with the floor directly on the
ground. Some hives come with a wooden stand with legs - even so, it is best
to stand these on four bricks or concrete blocks so the legs don’t rot or sink
into the ground under the weight of the hive. The best type of stand is a
slatted ’trestle’ about 18" off the ground. This saves a lot of bending for tall
beekeepers.
3 Slope the hives forwards VERY SLIGHTLY, as this will prevent rainwater
settling on the alighting board (if there is one) from running in the doorway.
It is also useful to have somewhere to store extra equipment nearby - a shed
or corner of the garage is useful. It is also useful to have easy access for a
vehicle if you intend moving hives onto clover or oilseed rape or heather.
Neighbours, safety and the Law
Remember that your enthusiasm for your hobby may not be shared by your
neighbours or passing members of the public. If your apiary is in the
countryside, well away from other buildings and roads, then your problems
may be few, other than the risk of hives being blown over or vandalised. If, on
the other hand, you are proposing to keep bees in your garden in a built-up
area, then there are the needs of others to be considered, and you may have
to look for another site. It is not a matter of - “I can do what I like in my own
garden.” That is true only so long as you do not cause a nuisance to others.
Some guidelines:
1 Tell your neighbours what you are proposing to do, and ask if they have any
objections.
2 Site the hives as far as possible from shared boundaries (that includes
boundaries against a footpath or pavement, or road. Remember that
someone on horseback or a bike may be in danger under these
circumstances.)
3 Make sure your bees are not of a strain prone to attack passers-by on sight
from a distance. If they are, you will be regularly attacked yourself as well.
4 Go to every length to prevent swarming.
5 Watch out for bee health. Your bees will probably be accused (probably
rightly as well!) of soiling windows, and even laundry. It helps top reassure
any complainers that the bees are healthy, and be prepared to offer a gift of
honey by way of appeasement if this is likely to be accepted. If it is not, move
the hives.
6 Do place a high screening of wall or thick hedging around the hives. This
will force the bees to keep their flight path high.
7 Keep your neighbours well supplied with honey at all times.
8 Keep your neighbours informed at all times.
9 Be prepared to move your bees if you have to. It is as well to have an
emergency alternative site available if possible. Neighbours can move away
and be replaced by less bee-friendly ones!
http://www.scottishbeekeepers.org.uk...e%20-%20aj.PDF

[gavin]

Hi Lindsay

The main SBA site and this one are entirely in harmony! And cutting and pasting is fine, as long as it is useful stuff and not repetitive diatribes on one of *those* topics!

I'd add a link to the SBA article if I could work out which article you've quoted ...

Sorry I haven't responded yet to your request for an update on the foulbroods. I ought to be doing one for circulation and will post a link to the SBA site when it goes there. Essentially, apart from the disappointment of the AFB being detected in Galloway and EFB and AFB in West Lothian, the picture is much improved.

Gavin