Poly hive musings.

[prakel]

Would there not be enough space, if you throw the naff looking feeder away, to insert new walls at each end of the box to accommodate the lugs of what would now be a centralized BS frame. If so. you could incorporate top bee space quite easily.

[fatshark]

I've considered that Prakel. I'm beginning to think that these boxes are another reason I should have used Langstroth from the outset … too late now though

I actually think the easiest way to do this would be to just replace the feeder with a big block of Kingspan faced with ply at one end of the box only.

Lindsay has gaffer-taped up the feeder. The edge of the feeder - on the three I've looked at so far - is about 4 mm higher than the frame runner at the other end of the box. I'm currently thinking of dropping the feeder enough to add a frame runner to the edge of the feeder, giving me top bee space and easier manipulations.

Finally, in fairness the feeder might look rubbish but it's a useful volume, sealed on the inside and contains a float.

PS I meant to add that painting these boxes is a joy for anyone who has previously painted the Paradise BeeBoxes sold by ModernBeekeeping … far fewer nooks and crannies.

[prakel]

I actually think the easiest way to do this would be to just replace the feeder with a big block of Kingspan

That's exactly what I've now done with these economy mating nucs although their days are numbered and they'll be cut down during the winter to make something else. Of the many designs I've so far trialled it's the one I like the least; some like it, but it's not for me:

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[Mellifera Crofter]

Kitta the Thornes 14”x12” Everynuc has a 60mm eke. ...

Thanks Lindsay. I hope I'll soon have an excuse to drive down south and stop at Thornes to see what they're like.
Kitta

[lindsay s]

Hi Fatshark I can see in another thread that you have started to use your Everynucs. Are you planning to use all of them this year and which end of the brood box are you leaving the wooden feeders? I’ve just finished using mine and didn’t have any problems with brace comb because the bees were only in them a short time. The two splits I made up now have mated and laying queens and have been moved into Smith hives. I’m also boosting them with brood and stores from other hives.

[fatshark]

Hi Lindsay
I've got three in use and have to find time to paint another three. I've arranged the wooden feeders at the opposite end to the entrance. I'm intending to overwinter colonies in them. I've made a few modifications before putting them into service. This included cutting some depth off the feeder lugs to make top bee space throughout the box (!) and adding a glued on plastic runner to the inside edge of the feeder to make frame manipulation a bit easier. I also added a cross bar to the feeder to stop frames sliding back and forwards … I'll be moving them a couple of times.

First impressions are pretty good. They are solid and well made. I wish the entrance was a bit smaller and am going to have to reduce them a bit. I think the Varroa tray is a bit of a gimmick and I wish they had some sort of handholds. These are minor quibbles … lets see how they do over the next few months.

Of the three types of poly nucs I own, I'd say these were the best (so far) but they're far from perfect.

Cheers

[Jon]

Bought two Swienty national brood boxes at Gormanston last week so will be giving those a trial.
28 Euro each.
Who is the cheapest UK supplier for these? C Wynne Jones charge a surcharge to NI. Yah boo!

[Mellifera Crofter]

I suppose you bought the new design boxes with the raised lug rest, Jon?

The top of the frames are now flush with the top of the boxes, and there is no lug recess at the bottom of the boxes, so I found that the bees now propolise the frames on to the next box causing mayhem when I tried to lift a box off the hive. The old boxes have no lug raise (a flaw), but the top of the frames end about 2mm below the top of the box walls. I think that slight gap makes a bit of a difference because I've not had this problem with the old boxes. A lug recess would be nice. I've since smeared the top of the boxes and the lugs with Vaseline. That helps a bit - just a bit. I still have to find an ideal poly hive. Kitta

[Beefever]

Actually I have been looking at those Swenty brood boxes and thinking about a division board to over winter two nucs. I’ve been told that the boxes are compatible with national wooden gear as well. Shame the roof is about the same price as a brood box though and the edge along the frame ends look rather thin.

[fatshark]

I've finally got round to converting my last couple of Modern Beekeeping/Paradise Honey 6 frame Langstroth poly nucs to take Nationals. Drumgerry posted a similar conversion earlier in this thread. I bought half a dozen of these in the 2013 sales and converted them into 2 x 3 frame Nationals for queen mating (with rather variable results due to my own stupidity … hint - it's best if the virgin queens can't get from one partition to the other ). I borrowed heavily from the Thornes Everynuc 2 design and ended up with something with top beespace, the correct beespace at each end (which the Everynuc doesn't have) and an integral feeder. The latter still needs a bar of some sort across the top to stop the frames shifting 'back' when in transport. The changes are non-destructive - I can convert it back to take Langstroths should the need arise (e.g. once Mann Lake achieves total market dominance).

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I'm overwintering bees in the Everynucs and they're doing very well. I've no doubt these butchered MB equivalents will be equally suitable. It's worth noting that the MB poly nucs are listed at £37 (but sometimes reduced to £29 in the sales). In comparison, the Everynucs are over £47. Once I'd got the measurements sorted it only took about 45 minutes, some wood from the scraps box and a bad cut to my index finger to make the conversion - easily worth the £18 saving.

Happy New Year