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Thread: Poly hive musings.

  1. #171

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    Quote Originally Posted by drumgerry View Post
    6 of them arrived today together with 3 of the Modern Beekeeping Langs. The Paynes poly seems a bit harder than on the two I already have or maybe it's just that they've got a winter under their belts. I like them. People criticise them but they work. Bees stay alive in them! Just moved a swarm into one of my old ones with removed feeder and I'm glad they won't have the option to build comb in that now. It's going to hurt (without bloodshed I hope!) to butcher the new 6 but it's got to be done.

    The MB ones are made of "proper" poly but it's going to to take a bit of work to get them to take Nat frames.
    You can get foam from Dunelm Mills etc in sheets
    I just cut a length and plugged the whole feeder slot along the top that stops the comb building

    Then just get the bread knife and make a slope on that thick middle rib to avoid squishing bees

  2. #172

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    Yes please post as I have some to convert too.
    (Plan to run some nationals alongside my langs.)

  3. #173

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    Lang_nat2.jpgLang_nat3.jpgLang_nat1.jpg

    I converted one of the lang nucs tonight. Not a big job really. Just some 3/4" ply, a bit of Kingspan wrapped in duct tape and an offcut of 10mm perspex. Also had to chisel a couple of slots for the ply to get it to sit flush with the floor. The way I've done it I've pretty much lost the option to split it into two 3 frame nucs but I'm not bothered about that. I didn't use any glue so if I eventually want to do that in retrospect it won't be too difficult. And the fact that I've used some Kingspan for gap filling will make it critical to use some form of mouseguard in the winter.

  4. #174
    Senior Member fatshark's Avatar
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    Default Poly hive musings.

    Hi drumgerry
    Where are the chiselled slots? Are they in the floor at the sides? I think I'm going to do the three frame conversion first using 6mm ply for the central divider. Correx would work but I want something a little more rigid to attach the 'ends' to. What are you going to use for a cover? Thick plastic sheet? Looks like you've opted for bottom bee space (or sacrificed the top bee space). The alternative I've used on my Paynes nucs is 2mm Perspex which I just slide back from one end and the bees either take off or retreat under. I reckon it might be possible to have a half and half 2mm cover board for a twin three frame nuc, so that opening one side doesn't let all the bees out from the other ... I have a 'Twinstock' divided National brood box with a plastic cover sheet pinned along the centre which works very well. I just replace it when it gets too mucky to see through.

  5. #175

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    Yep - in the floor at the sides Fatshark. So easy to do in poly with a sharp chisel! I have a little Pfeil 10mm one which was perfect. I have some 3mm perspex I can use for a crownboard - bloody useful stuff perspex is but a bit scary cutting it on the table saw and mitre saw! And yep I've gone for bottom bee space but I could take the runners out and get the top bee space back. Couldn't be ar*ed getting it into shape for a twin nuc but it'd be great to see your pics when you've done it.

  6. #176

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    Just had a thought that if you could be bothered and have the tools you could rout or table saw a slot in the ply ends to take your 6mm divider. Make the slot 7mm wide and it'd be easier taking it in and out. No need for cabinet-making tolerances here!

  7. #177
    Senior Member fatshark's Avatar
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    Default Poly hive musings.

    2-5mm Perspex can be snapped pretty easily ... just deeply score it using a metal straightedge and Stanley knife then lay the edge along a suitable right angle (table, bench etc.), clamp a length of wood along the top and then sharply snap it down. I've done this with up to 6'x4' sheets. Much easier than a saw!

  8. #178
    Senior Member fatshark's Avatar
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    Default Poly hive musings.

    Ha! I can't afford the life insurance premiums necessary to use a router ...

  9. #179

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    Great tip Fatshark - thanks! I've had my heart in mouth moments especially with the mitre saw when the perspex snaps with an almighty bang - not for the faint of heart!

  10. #180

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    Cutting straight slots with a router is a doddle - not so dangerous really! But even easier with the table saw just moving the fence in little increments till you've got the slot width you want.

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