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Where is it best to have the colony cluster over the winter in the brood box.
1. If it is in the centre of the box and there are stores fore and aft, if the cluster moves forward it can become isiolated from stores behind.
2. If it moves back it can be come isoloated from store to the front.
3. Therefore should I organise the cluster so that all stores are either behind it to to the front.
Hope this makes sense.
It might simply be more important to ensure you have a big enough colony, with sufficient stores and a sound, well insulated hive to take care of this. Then, if for some reason you suspect that emergency feeding is needed put fondant directly over the cluster. A strong colony can be very adept at moving stores around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Greengage
If you are worried about the size of the colony you could consider wintering in a poly-nuc box.
Cheers thanks for that
One reason I run mine "warm way" (= frames parallel to front of hive) is that they pretty reliably make the nest a frame or two back from the entrance, and stash any extra stores behind. So they know to back into the stores over winter.
But I'd agree with FD - enough bees, enough stores, and a dry box where they can keep warm, and you've got the vital basics covered.
I have just painted (Hammerite Garage Door paint- green) 4 Lang hive cosies for fitting when dry. 100mm thick roof, 50mm walls.
Nearly as good as a poly hive ..
Hive cosies. That is _such_ a good word for them - I haven't heard it before.Quote:
Originally Posted by madasafish
What do you make yours out of?
What do they look like? - and made from?Quote:
Originally Posted by madasafish
GG if you have enough broodboxes then Ian Craig's way of moving stores over the cluster area using double brood and fat spacers is pretty foolproof
Look for his "My Beekeeping Year" article on SBA website for details
Sent from my LIFETAB_S1034X using Tapatalk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emma
I use insulation board. Usually 50mm thick but also 35mm and 25mm . I prefer 50mm. I buy it all used/unwanted on Gumtree/Preloved or ebay with a target price of around £5 a board (vs new £15).Quote:
Originally Posted by alancooper
The top is 100mm thick.
Glued with 5 minute PU glue (ebay http://tinyurl.com/zkrl7cq ) and held together for gluing with wooden skewers - old lolly sticks or Macdonalds stirrers/skewers (FOC). Joints sealed with aluminium tape (Wickes). http://tinyurl.com/j988ggv
EDIT: I will post more pictures later on...Done 6/9
found the article thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by The Drone Ranger
More pictures
Thanks for the pics, Madasafish! The couple I've tried are similar construction. Fairly thin board - was lying around after an old hut was taken down - and very fragile. I hadn't thought it might be scroungable online, great tip, thank you.
Why do you paint them? & what kind of paint sticks?